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What temperatue do you have your heating set at?


therealhantsram

What temperatue do you have your heating set at?  

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8 minutes ago, Mucker1884 said:

This may be a stupid question… but I’m not proud…

the cooler the water in the CH system, the longer the system takes to reach the temp set by the room thermostat? ?‍♂️

is that an advantage over hotter water/quicker to reach the set room temp?  ?‍♂️
 

Is this similar to @sage’s comments re keeping a moderate temp all around the clock (which I tend to agree with, in theory). ?‍♂️

I’ll have a stab at explaining, forgive my poor grammar. The 'flow temperature' is the temperature your boiler heats up the water to before sending it off to your radiators. Most gas boilers are set up to operate at what is called 80/60 flow and return temperatures. This means the boiler heats up the water (called ‘the flow’) to 80°C. The water returns to the boiler after travelling around all your radiators (called ‘the return’) at 60°C, having given off 20°C to the room.

However 80/60 flow and return temperatures are too high for a condensing gas boiler to achieve the A-rated efficiencies shown 'on-the-box'. It is a little know fact that modern boilers have a variable efficiency between A-E, in other words they are not A-rated out of the box. Studies have found most to be C-E-Rated in the home, equivalent to just 75-85% efficiency.

Your installer should have reduced the flow temperature to give the boiler a chance to run in what is known as 'condensing mode' as much as possible. This is when it can recover the heat that was previously lost through the flue on old style boilers.

At 70/50°C the boiler will start to operate in condensing mode. Only when the flow temperature is 60°C or lower will the boiler recover enough heat to reach its higher efficiency potential.

 

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I've agreed the following with the OH for this winter, which is a triumph of sorts :

7am - 10am    20.C

10am - 5pm    17.C  (At home) 

5pm - 11pm     19.C

Overnight   12.C (House never gets this cold) 

The boiler temperature is adjustable and usually set to 60.C

I upgraded all the thermostatic radiator valves last year, including towel rails, so rooms we're not using can be on low or just frost settings. Gonna take readings today so I can measure whether our consumption has gone down this winter ?

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14 minutes ago, Boycie said:

I’ll have a stab at explaining, forgive my poor grammar. The 'flow temperature' is the temperature your boiler heats up the water to before sending it off to your radiators. Most gas boilers are set up to operate at what is called 80/60 flow and return temperatures. This means the boiler heats up the water (called ‘the flow’) to 80°C. The water returns to the boiler after travelling around all your radiators (called ‘the return’) at 60°C, having given off 20°C to the room.

However 80/60 flow and return temperatures are too high for a condensing gas boiler to achieve the A-rated efficiencies shown 'on-the-box'. It is a little know fact that modern boilers have a variable efficiency between A-E, in other words they are not A-rated out of the box. Studies have found most to be C-E-Rated in the home, equivalent to just 75-85% efficiency.

Your installer should have reduced the flow temperature to give the boiler a chance to run in what is known as 'condensing mode' as much as possible. This is when it can recover the heat that was previously lost through the flue on old style boilers.

At 70/50°C the boiler will start to operate in condensing mode. Only when the flow temperature is 60°C or lower will the boiler recover enough heat to reach its higher efficiency potential.

 

Mines at 55 do you think that will be ok? The missus moans it’s cold but I keep telling her there’s summat wrong with her.

When I had a new boiler the chap who fitted it said the lower the settings the cheaper it is to run.

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16 minutes ago, Boycie said:

I’ll have a stab at explaining, forgive my poor grammar. The 'flow temperature' is the temperature your boiler heats up the water to before sending it off to your radiators. Most gas boilers are set up to operate at what is called 80/60 flow and return temperatures. This means the boiler heats up the water (called ‘the flow’) to 80°C. The water returns to the boiler after travelling around all your radiators (called ‘the return’) at 60°C, having given off 20°C to the room.

However 80/60 flow and return temperatures are too high for a condensing gas boiler to achieve the A-rated efficiencies shown 'on-the-box'. It is a little know fact that modern boilers have a variable efficiency between A-E, in other words they are not A-rated out of the box. Studies have found most to be C-E-Rated in the home, equivalent to just 75-85% efficiency.

Your installer should have reduced the flow temperature to give the boiler a chance to run in what is known as 'condensing mode' as much as possible. This is when it can recover the heat that was previously lost through the flue on old style boilers.

At 70/50°C the boiler will start to operate in condensing mode. Only when the flow temperature is 60°C or lower will the boiler recover enough heat to reach its higher efficiency potential.

 

We’re due a service anyway. 
would a PM be appropriate? (Assuming that’s in your remit, of course?). ??

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30 minutes ago, Boycie said:

I’ll have a stab at explaining, forgive my poor grammar. The 'flow temperature' is the temperature your boiler heats up the water to before sending it off to your radiators. Most gas boilers are set up to operate at what is called 80/60 flow and return temperatures. This means the boiler heats up the water (called ‘the flow’) to 80°C. The water returns to the boiler after travelling around all your radiators (called ‘the return’) at 60°C, having given off 20°C to the room.

However 80/60 flow and return temperatures are too high for a condensing gas boiler to achieve the A-rated efficiencies shown 'on-the-box'. It is a little know fact that modern boilers have a variable efficiency between A-E, in other words they are not A-rated out of the box. Studies have found most to be C-E-Rated in the home, equivalent to just 75-85% efficiency.

Your installer should have reduced the flow temperature to give the boiler a chance to run in what is known as 'condensing mode' as much as possible. This is when it can recover the heat that was previously lost through the flue on old style boilers.

At 70/50°C the boiler will start to operate in condensing mode. Only when the flow temperature is 60°C or lower will the boiler recover enough heat to reach its higher efficiency potential.

 

Who says sparkies can’t spell

image.thumb.jpeg.a81e559de0e3ec4ed1456a6b25d80454.jpeg

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38 minutes ago, Mucker1884 said:

We’re due a service anyway. 
would a PM be appropriate? (Assuming that’s in your remit, of course?). ??

Gas service on your boiler?

Im a sparky mate! ? ( it’s like a plumber but with more brain cells)

Although I do know a chap who will service a boiler and is Gas Safe registered.

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1 hour ago, Boycie said:

I’ll have a stab at explaining, forgive my poor grammar. The 'flow temperature' is the temperature your boiler heats up the water to before sending it off to your radiators. Most gas boilers are set up to operate at what is called 80/60 flow and return temperatures. This means the boiler heats up the water (called ‘the flow’) to 80°C. The water returns to the boiler after travelling around all your radiators (called ‘the return’) at 60°C, having given off 20°C to the room.

However 80/60 flow and return temperatures are too high for a condensing gas boiler to achieve the A-rated efficiencies shown 'on-the-box'. It is a little know fact that modern boilers have a variable efficiency between A-E, in other words they are not A-rated out of the box. Studies have found most to be C-E-Rated in the home, equivalent to just 75-85% efficiency.

Your installer should have reduced the flow temperature to give the boiler a chance to run in what is known as 'condensing mode' as much as possible. This is when it can recover the heat that was previously lost through the flue on old style boilers.

At 70/50°C the boiler will start to operate in condensing mode. Only when the flow temperature is 60°C or lower will the boiler recover enough heat to reach its higher efficiency potential.

 

We had a new boiler installed this Summer. The installer told us to never set the temperature above 70C for this very reason, and recommended keeping it at 60C if we can to be most efficient.

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5 minutes ago, therealhantsram said:

We had a new boiler installed this Summer. The installer told us to never set the temperature above 70C for this very reason, and recommended keeping it at 60C if we can to be most efficient.

Sound like a very intelligent type of guy.

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Had my yearly service on my combie boiler on Wed £29 a deal through BG, All good on the report certificate ?, As for settings, I only put the heating on when i'm cold by using the thermostat, I was on a fixed BG rate before the utility cap, Have since gone back to standard variable rate with no penalty from BG, Gas price is the same as fixed price, Leccy 13p cheaper per whatever ?‍♀️, I wont play the Utilities game, I live on my own so no one else to keep warm, Just done my washing and now drying them in the home without using my CH or tumble dryer.

What this has done is make the customer more aware of our usage, I hope we all can stick 2 fingers up at those who supply us with ner ner ne ner ner ?

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27 minutes ago, Unlucky Alf said:

Had my yearly service on my combie boiler on Wed £29 a deal through BG, All good on the report certificate ?, As for settings, I only put the heating on when i'm cold by using the thermostat, I was on a fixed BG rate before the utility cap, Have since gone back to standard variable rate with no penalty from BG, Gas price is the same as fixed price, Leccy 13p cheaper per whatever ?‍♀️, I wont play the Utilities game, I live on my own so no one else to keep warm, Just done my washing and now drying them in the home without using my CH or tumble dryer.

What this has done is make the customer more aware of our usage, I hope we all can stick 2 fingers up at those who supply us with ner ner ne ner ner ?

That’s a good routine, but what is your thermostat set at on your boiler? It doesn’t need to be too high.

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2 minutes ago, RadioactiveWaste said:

I'm looking into supergluing ours at 17 because I can't keep an eye on it ever hour of every day....

We used to have a thermostat dial with tiny little lock catches on it, to stop it being rotated.  
came in handy when we had teens in the house (that were unaware of the lock option, obvs)!  ??

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2 hours ago, Boycie said:

Gas service on your boiler?

Im a sparky mate! ? ( it’s like a plumber but with more brain cells)

Although I do know a chap who will service a boiler and is Gas Safe registered.

I’ve moved into an electric only flat with an old style water tank heater and old dimplex heaters. Do you know which electric boilers ( for instant hot water ) and modern electric heaters are best. Been looking at some Fischer stuff online. 

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19 minutes ago, Reggie Greenwood said:

I’ve moved into an electric only flat with an old style water tank heater and old dimplex heaters. Do you know which electric boilers ( for instant hot water ) and modern electric heaters are best. Been looking at some Fischer stuff online. 

The old brick storage heaters are no more I don’t think?  Radio, Bluetooth or signal wired panel heaters seem to be the new thing at the moment. Although perhaps heat pump systems are an option for all electric?  Bit expensive mind.

Do you need to supply a bath or do you have a shower cubicle only? How many hot tap outlets do you have?  You can get electric central heating systems that use traditional wet system radiators.  But a I guess that’s an added expense compared to just connecting a heater to an existing point?

That Fischer stuff looks good https://fischerfutureheat.com/product/electric-heaters/

Edited by Boycie
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