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Boycie

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Are you 'priming' the barrel?

Well I don't warn it to expect some beer in 5 minutes?

But if you mean add the sugar then yes.

When I syphon the beer out the bucket into the barrel "king keg top tap type" I may be too carefull and perhaps should spoon some sediment into the barrel as well.

I've been told that another guy I know tips it straight into the barrel no messsin with syphoning etc?

Anyway, the last beer I did was ruined after I dropped something in it by accident when I was taking the og in the bucket. It never cleared and tasted rank with a "w".

Bloody brewing, I'll stick to brewing farts I think.:frown:

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Just for Eddie.

Only eddies a proper home brewer.

Thanks - although I'm sure there are a few others on the forum - certainly reading this thread there are a few who mash as opposed to 'just' using kits. I specialise in Belgian (trappist-style) beers, although over the last couple of years I have done an awful lot of experimentation to study the effects of particular yeast strains.

I've not brewed for the last couple of months because I knew that we were going to have family staying over Christmas and the new year so I wanted everything cleared away, no stray fermenters bubbling away. I got the last one bottled about 3 days before Christmas.

One of the more satisfying things I started doing over the last few years was harvesting the yeast strains that are found in bottle-conditioned beers, especially Belgians, then growing the yeast on until I had enough to use in a batch.

Anyway, brewing from kits is a great place to start because it teaches the basics about sanitisation, fermentation, racking to secondary, bottling and conditioning. You can produce some great brews from the humble kit, and even now if I want to get something going quickly and can't spare 6 or 7 hours for a full brewday, I would have no qualms about picking up a Brewferm kit.

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How much would you brew in a 7 hour day?

My normal brewlength is 5 gallons, but I can squeeze 8 or 10 out using the 'parti-gyle' technique (two separate sparges from the same mash) this would give me a 'big beer' and a 'small beer'. I'd like to spend some time building a bigger mash tun and invest in a 12 gallon boiler, then I will be able to double those volumes.

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Jeez, some terms there that lost me!

'brewlength' - the amount of beer I'm looking to have after the boil

'parti-gyle' - washing the malted grain out twice, collecting the volumes of run-off separately. The first collection will be more concentrated in malt (sugar), therefore will ferment out to give a stronger beer.

'sparge' - rinsing the malt (sugar) out of the grain

'big beer' - a stronger ale. The 'big' refers to the gravity reading. Higher number = stronger beer

'small beer' - a weaker ale.

'mash tun' - the vessel you soak your grain in.

A quick description of the mashing process:

A mash tun is an insulated box (a picnic cooler is an ideal thing to use as a mash tun, but I custom-built mine with various insulating layers), usually around 10 gallons in capacity, in which you will soak your grain in order to extract the malt out of the barley.

1. Shove a couple of kettles of boiling water in your mash tun, put its lid on and leave it for 10 or 15 minutes to pre-heat the box.

2. Drain the water out of the mash tun.

3. Tip your grain into the mash tun.

4. Connect your hot liquor tun (basically an electric boiler) up to your mash tun

5. Run the required volume of hot water (at the desired temperature) into your mash tun.

6. Close taps

7. Stir the mash (the mixture of grain and hot water) to break up clumps (dough balls).

8. Check temperature - should be around 66C. Adjust as necessary, stir again to avoid hot or cold spots

9. Put lid back on, leave for an hour or so (depends on type of grain) to convert starches to fermentable sugars

10. Run a tiny bit of liquor out of tap, perform iodine test. If there is no starch present (depends on colour of iodine test result), Mash is finished.

11. When mash is completed, run the liquor out into a big bucket or another boiler. At the same time, add more hot water (75C) at the same rate you are collecting your runoff. This will effectively rinse the sugars out of the grain. This is called 'sparging'.

12. Continually check the specific gravity of the runoff you are collecting (I use an optical refractometer). When it falls down below around 1015, your mash and sparge is complete.

You can now move on to the boil.

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